Unlocking Flavor in Kenyan Coffee
Specialty coffee from Kenya can pack tons of flavor when properly roasted. Unlocking sweetness, juiciness and notes of black currant while hiding herbaceous notes of tomato soup require roasters to maintain tight control of the coffee throughout the roasting process. Over roasted (even without roasting dark) Kenyan coffee may show a lot of body, but lack the sweetness and complexity that we are looking to unlock. Under roasted Kenyas will lack both body and sweetness. Lets learn what it takes to offer a top-notch Kenya.
Before its roasted, every coffee's quality depends on the bean. Terroir, bean size and variety all play vital roles in presenting unique flavor profiles. Coffee grown on high elevation farms in counties like Nyeri, Kirinyaga, Kiambu and Muranga can have some of the most pronounced and unique cups.
As part of the dry milling process, beans are sorted by size. Bean size can correlate with bean density and often the flavor/oils held within the coffee. AA, AB and PB (Peaberry) are commonly exported to specialty coffee roasters, where several other bean sizes including C, E, and TT might be sold for a lower price to giant corporate coffee chains or sold domestically within Kenya.
As specialty coffee roasters, we purchase some of the best coffee available to share with our customers. Any coffee we bring in shows a commitment to upholding a high standard of quality and consistency.
When roasting we start with a theory and go from there. Each roast is tasted and compared to its roast profile (recipe) to discover what flavors may have been unlocked. Where and when (within the roast) we choose to apply heat, how much heat, airflow, length of roast are just some factors that contribute to providing the best coffee.
Here’s a look at how we might roast Kenya to unlocking sweetness, juiciness and notes of black currant while attempting to tame down notes of tomato. This is merely theoretical and can change as a green coffee ages.
Charge and Soak (The start): A dense bean grown at high elevation needs a high heat from the beginning, high enough convective heat to reach the inside, without scorching the outside with too much conductive heat.
Drying Stage: Maintain high heat before and going into the Maillard reaction but low enough to develop and caramelize sugars.
Maillard Reaction: Maintain good heat through Maillard reaction and make sure the bean has enough time to absorb that heat. Too fast and we will not get the chemical reactions necessary for bringing out great flavor.
First Crack: Drive into first crack. A dense bean may retain a lot of heat. Roasting too fast going into first crack can underdeveloped coffee because it wont have enough time for sugars to caramelize. Too low of heat may overdevelop and while sugars might be caramelized and perceived acidity might be lost. A drawn out roast may bring about more body than we intend.
Development: Long development can contribute to savory notes and depth. Too much depth and a coffee’s juiciness may be lost.
With all of these variables contributing to bringing out the best in each coffee, third wave roasters have their work cut out for them. While we love knowing that coffee may have come right out of the roaster and into the bag, freshly roasted coffee is never the best version of that coffee. This is particularly true of Kenya coffee. We encourage our customers to continue tasting nuances as each coffee opens up over time, which may take several weeks. So, if you pick up a bag from us or any other specialty coffee roaster, notice how that coffee may improve over a period of several weeks. And dont shy away from trying different brewing methods and techniques, you may be surprised what flavors are waiting to be discovered.